Despite some fairly intense development, the center of St. Ives remains much the same: a warren of small steep streets overlooking several white beaches.
·
. Still an artist
colony, St. Ives is dotted with small galleries selling prints, paintings,
jewelry, glass products such as small stained glass sailboats and hand poured
glass tiles, and all manner of touristsy gew-gaws. We had so many encounters with so many dogs
of every conceivable size and species that the girls finally declared
themselves in “puppy overload.” Apparently lots of holidayers bring their
dogs to run on the beach. At any rate we met a lovely Burmese Mt
Dog—bigger I think than a Saint Bernard, ubiquitous terriers, a very polite
pair of airdales, the biggest bassett hound I’ve ever seen—maybe it was another
species…something breathtaking which I think was a Scottish deer hound,
whippets galore.
St. Ives: The Wharf |
St.
Ives barely misses having a case of terminal cutes. There are many small winding streets, leading
up hills so steep that some streets are simply staircases. Mostly white-washed
walls or grantite, often teal or royal blue trim, pots of flowers or succulents
so large they look like they are from another planet (imagine hens and chickens
more than a foot across). There is a
long street fronting the central beach called the wharf which curves around to
become a long pier stretching out into the water with a lighthouse at the
end. The sand is pale, the color of
light maple, and the water is completely transparent, changing colors
constantly with the depth and shifting clouds. The general effect is pale
yellow and
turquoise.
Granite just below the St. Ives Museum |
View from SW side of Pier |
This is the trip I wanted to do this year! Wonderful report on your visit to the Woolf haunts and how they look today. I had heard that one couldn't get a boat trip TTL anymore but you did manage to do the next best thing! Do let me know of any other trips you might be planning if you are looking for Woolfian company! As you will see I am an artist, sometime writer (now) and a photographer.
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